Castles and Chateaus
During our stay at Chateau de la Barbeliniere we spent many days touring nearby historic towns and villages. The area figures prominently in the history of medieval and Renaissance France, and that legacy has bequeathed it with a stunning array of architectural monuments, including some of the most famous castles, chateaus and cathedrals in the country..
To the north lay Tours and the famous Val de Loire, site of numerous UNESCO world heritage chateaus, and the nearby medieval-fortress towns of Chinon, Amboise and Loches. To the east, the more humble but equally enchanting villages of La Roche-Posay, one-time home of the French novelist and poet, Victor Hugo, and Angles-sur-l'Anglin, one of France's "most beautiful villages". To the west, Richelieu, home and namesake of the early 17th century Cardinal Richelieu. To the south, Poitiers, the namesake of King Francis I's mistress Diane de Poitiers. Whichever direction we headed, we were able to steep in the rich, cultural heritage of provincial France.
On one occasion, we stopped in at the private Chateau de Coulaine, just outside the town of Chinon on the banks of the Vienne river, a tributary of the Loire. We had met the owners at Arnaud and Marie-Laure's anniversary party, and a shared interest in the piano between the castle owner's husband and I led to an invitation for a visit.
Although the castle has been in the Bonnaventure family since its reconstruction in 1470, the working winery has actually been in continuous operation since 1300! How's that for "old vines."?
Although the tasting room was closed, we were served a nice, bright Chateau de Coulaine Chenin Blanc during our afternoon visit.
Unlike the Renaissance era Chateau Barbeliniere, whose design was primarily ornamental, the 15th century Chateau Coulaine had architectural elements serving an actual defensive purpose. The main central tower was a lookout for the guards, who could ride their horses up the wide staircase to reach the guard house on the top floor.
The main salon had since been updated to Renaissance luxury and style, and in one corner, an early 19th century piano beckoned. The owner and I traded turns at the keyboard.
On another occasion we headed west towards Richelieu for a walk-about tour of Marie-Laure's cousin's chateau. This property originated as a hunting lodge, and was surrounded by a beautiful moat, built for aesthetics and not for defense.
Another day, at the suggestion of one of Chateau de la Babeliniere's wedding caterers, we headed south towards Jaunay-Clan, where the caterer had purchased a castle to use as a wedding venue. Like most castles, Chateau de Vayres showed a mix of architectural elements from the various reconstructions. The two towers dated to 1392, while the dovecote originated in 1656.
With another remodel ongoing to convert Chateau de Vayres to a wedding venue, we could only admire the building from the road. From what we could tell, however, Chateau de la Barbeliniere was going to have some stiff competition.
The little Chateau de Coussay, near Mirebeau, was the exile home of Cardinal Richelieu after he fell out of favor with the pope.
As delightful as the smaller castles were, nothing can compete with the grandeur and elegance of the major historical sites of the department of Indre-et-Loire.
The castle at Chinon dates back to the 10th century, and was historically significant for its 1429 visit by then 17-year old Joan of Arc. She had been summoned by the Dauphin Charles VII to prove her faith and virginity (!) as a precondition for Charles' lending her troops to free her hometown Orleans from the English.
Apparently the exam went well, and Charles' army, led by Joan, defeated the British that May, enabling Charles' coronation as the king of France.
Just east of Tours lies Chenonceau, elegantly spanning the River Cher, another tributary of the Loire.
Chenonceau was the favorite haunt of Diane de Poitiers, first mistress of King Henry II. After his passing, Henry's resentful wife, Catherine de Medici kicked Diane out the chateau. Wouldn't you have liked to be a fly on the wall for that encounter?
In a paradoxical blend, the dramatic Chateau Rochechouart housed a museum of modern art.
Churches and Cathedrals
Every town and village, small or large, has its requisite Catholic church. Ranging from the austere, medieval Romanesque to the awe-inspiring, Renaissance gothic, their diverse architectural designs made for an interesting visit.
Just east of Chatellerault lies La Roche-Posay, the perfect example of a medieval, hilltop village, with a late-Romanesque style church dating to the 11th century. The interior was remodeled in the mid 1850s to a more modern, painted style.
For a more classical interior, we didn't have to go too far. Nearby Champigny-sur-Veude's Sainte-Chapelle was an example of the gothic style, and featured some wonderful stained glass windows.
And in Tours one could tour (imagine that!) one of the most historic cathedrals in the Loire valley.
In summary, fans of historical properties will find the Loire valley and surrounding countryside a gold mine. Many private chateaus are open certain days of the month for public tours, and the doors of the churches and cathedrals are usually open. With so many amazing properties to choose from, one might find it difficult to pick a favorite. For us it was easy--it was our own Cinderella fantasy, Chateau de la Barbeliniere.
